SEPTEMBER 2000

I wanted to take Rhoda on a birding trip but one not so intense that she would be overwhelmed, and one that provided diversity. I found such a trip in the International Elderhostel catalogue, offering fifteen days in Costa Rica. Its theme was nature study with an emphasis on bird identification. I carefully laid it out for her, and having an adventurous spirit herself, she agreed.
The trip visited the capital, San Jose, and four different habitats: cloud forest, tropical dry forest, tropical humid forest and rainforest (what we often call "jungle"). Our accommodations were in modern lodges with private rooms with baths, and these would provide the opportunity to study the flora and fauna, enjoy typical Costa Rican food and partake of other activities.
After getting all the suggested inoculations and armed with malaria pills, binoculars and cameras, we left JFK airport on March 6, 1999 headed for San Jose via Miami.
Our group totaled twenty, mostly east coasters. Surprisingly, although all had a keen interest in nature only five others were birders. Our guide Wendy, a 21year-old native Costa Rican ("tico") really knew her stuff. The day’s activities began with an optional 6:00 am bird walk followed by more birding between breakfast and lunch. These were usually walks along nature trails but also included a cart ride across a savanna and two boat rides. In the early afternoon we visited universities, museums, coffee and banana plantations, a sugar cane refinery, and a couple of towns. Before dinner we listened to interesting lectures which provided insights regarding Costa Rica’s history, economy, topography, birds, plants, animals, and reptiles. One night we went on an owl prowl. We traveled by mini_bus along the country’s winding, narrow roads. Our driver, Ramon, deserves a lot of credit for always getting us there in one piece. Wendy had introduced him as Costa Rica’s "second best" driver. The punch line was the "best" driver had recently been killed in an automobile accident.
France accommodation The food was really good and I ate more fruit in two weeks than I had in the previous two years. Contrary to what we had read and were told stateside, we were served and ate everything, and even drank the water at every lodge with no ill effects. A trip to a local ice_cream parlor in one of the small towns, however, was thought to be the cause of eight in our group coming down with stomach problems, Rhoda included. She required medical intervention at a nearby public health station, which was by the way, free of charge. Fortunately she bounced back in a day, making the quickest recovery and only missing one activity.
The temperature was comfortable in the mountains and warm in the lowlands. Wide brimmed hats, sunscreen, and insect repellent were the order of the day. Surprisingly we saw few mosquitos and only had rain for part of one day (we were there in the dry season which means it rains less than other months.)
As we walked along the covered walkway at the Selva Verde Lodge in the Caribbean rainforest we encountered a Boa Constrictor hanging from the rafters. It was really beautiful and the experience was exciting.

This was the only snake we saw but other reptiles were well represented. They included Caiman, Spiny-tailed and Green iguanas, a large Basilisk (also known as the "Jesus Christ Lizard" for its ability to run across the water on its hind legs), gecko, and Green and Red Poison Dart Frog (the poisonous substance exuded from their skin was smeared on arrow points.)
Among mammals we saw three kinds of monkeys, White-faced Capuchin, Mantled Howler and Spider Monkey, plus White-nosed Coatis, Agoutis (large rodents), peccaries, Three-toed Sloth, Pygmy and Variegated squirrels, Black Skunk and Long-nosed and Sac-wing bats. We also saw a profusion of beautiful butterflies, a large variety of trees and wonderful flowers.
Last but not least were the birds. All colors of the rainbow were represented as we watched a seemingly endless variety of tanagers and flycatchers, pigeons, hummingbirds, trogans, toucans, parrots (including Scarlet Macaw), parakeets, hawks, and woodpeckers. We also saw Sunbittern and others such as guans, woodcreepers, antshrikes, antvireos, tityras, euphonias, honeycreepers, saltators and motmots. We saw Double-striped Thicknees nesting in the savanna and a Gray-necked Wood-Rail so close I could have patted it on its head. Another interesting bird was a Swallow-tailed Swift, a sort of Swallow-tailed Kite in miniature.
All told we saw over 150 species and I had 100 life birds. I spoke with the leader of a Wings group on the last morning of a thirteen day trip. They already had 525 species. This gave cause for reflection, as I wondered why I wasn’t on their trip, but Rhoda had a super time and so did I. Another great place visited was Tabicon Hot Springs. Nestled at the base of the backside of the Arenal Volcano, the spa has terraced pools set in the midst of a botanical garden. There is even a bar surrounded by water where you sit on submerged stools sipping a drink and listening to music. I met two birders from England there, and while Rhoda enjoyed the water we hiked half way to the top of the volcano birding all the way. My field guide, A Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica by F. Gary Stiles and Alexander Skutch (Cornell University Press, 1989) is rather heavy and bulky so I made thorough field notes and identified most of the birds later. This was an active volcano and we listened to it booming and watched it spewing lava for two nights from our terrace at the Arenal Vista Lodge, but for some reason, the lava always flows down the other side which was denuded of vegetation while this side remains lush.
At the conclusion of our farewell meal, they rolled out a large birthday cake and sang Happy Birthday to me. I was touched. Our trip ended that night but instead of flying home the next morning, we opted to remain for another day and celebrate my actual birthday, swimming, snorkeling, sipping cool drinks, and enjoying a great barbecue on Tortuga Island in the Bay of Nicoya.
A popular tico expression is "pura vida" – enjoy a good life, and we did on our Costa Rican adventure. One day I may return to fill in the 400 or so species I didn’t see this time, but for now there are no regrets.